Featured Column
RSJ’s Advice to Upcoming Graduates 2025
A few years ago, when both of my kids left for college, I wrote each of them a letter. Nothing…
Read moreKing Cake
Cakes Fit For A King
It’s king cake season. Those four words don’t carry a lot of weight across 90% of this country. Though in…
Read moreNeck Deep In King Cake Development
It looks like 2023 will go down as the year of the king cake— at least in my book. I…
Read moreRSJ's New Orleans Favorites
RSJ’s New Orleans Restaurant Recommendations 2024
NEW ORLEANS— In a poll of national food critics I believe New Orleans would be listed among the top three…
Read moreRSJ’s Top 10 New Orleans Breakfasts
The following is the first in a summer-column series that will cover dining in New Orleans. Over the next four…
Read moreAn Engagement to Remember
This past weekend was a memorable one for our family. Our 26-year old daughter got engaged to her longtime boyfriend.…
Read moreRecent Columns

Eight Weeks, Fifty Memories, One Grateful Heart
By the end of this year, more than 1,400 people will have traveled with me on RSJ Yonderlust Tours. It’s…
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Onward Toward a Creative Life and Not an Unlived Life
There’s a quiet fear I carry that never really goes away. It doesn’t keep me up at night, but it…
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A Spring of Celebrations
YPRES, BELGIUM—This spring has been a long celebration—one after another, in a beautiful blur. It all started with Mardi Gras,…
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The Gift of Work, the Blessing of People
(A Life I Didn’t Plan, But Am Grateful to Live) PETROGNANO, TUSCANY— Two full days off. That’s a rarity over…
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Friendship
PETROGNANO, Italy — Something unexpected happened over the course of the last 13 years. A quiet village in the Tuscan…
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Rolling Fork is Truly Rising
PETROGNANO, TUSCANY— Since 2017, over 1,350 people have traveled with me on more than 55 trips to seven European countries…
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No Sign, No Menu, Just Home
No one signs up for a European tour expecting to have lunch in a stranger’s home in a village so…
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The Romance of a Pig Farm
SEVILLE— No one expects to use the word romantic when talking about a pig farm. But standing in the soft…
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A Father’s Reflection on a Wedding Weekend
There are only a few moments in life when time slows down enough to let you take it all in.For…
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The Weight of a Wedding
Life tends to deliver milestones in clusters, never spreading them out at a leisurely pace, but stacking them up all…
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End of an Era: The Last Chapter of Coney Island Café
Some people judge towns by their population. Others point to school systems, parks, water and air quality, or thriving local…
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The Wedding
These days, emotions are running high. One minute, I’m in my truck thinking about our restaurants or the travel business,…
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Ribeyes, Foxes, with a Side of Zebras
In the 1990s, I was at a statewide board meeting for the Mississippi Restaurant Association, and during a discussion about…
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My Kind of Town: RSJ’s Chicago Favorites
CHICAGO— This city has been a part of my life for the past thirty-five years. It’s a city that holds…
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S’mores Are a Sticky Lie
Last week, a polar vortex blew through the region and New Orleans got eight inches of snow. I think that’s…
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The Weight of Weather and a Wedding
A bitter cold has settled into the Pine Belt of Mississippi this week, and it’s the kind of chill that…
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A King Cake Conversion
Most of my life, I wasn’t a fan of Mardi Gras king cakes. Even during the decades when I consumed…
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Holy Smokes: Discovering Barbecue Heaven at Sacred Ground
For most of my early life, barbecue wasn’t much of a staple. Not because I didn’t like it—far from it—but…
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RSJ’s Most Memorable Meals of 2024
For the past 25 years, my final column of the year has always been a list of the top 10…
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Parental Pride
Pride is a complex emotion. Sitting in the audience, watching my son walk across the stage to receive his bachelor’s…
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Team and Leadership
Last night, my leadership team gathered for our 37th annual Christmas dinner—a tradition I cherish. It’s a moment to pause,…
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Success Starts with Failure
My success today is rooted in the failures of my past. Failure can be a necessary ingredient for success, and…
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Thanksgiving in the Kitchen
Thanksgiving was different this year. The usual hum of our family traditions felt even richer, the air filled with the…
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Mom part II
It’s a strange position to be asked to write an obituary for your mother. It was something I dreaded for…
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No Place Like Home
HATTIESBURG, MISS— After seven weeks overseas, I’m finally home. My time in Italy was a whirlwind of hospitality, history, and…
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The Yonderlust Spirit
PETROGNANO, TUSCANY—Bringing people together has become one of life’s greatest joys, and that’s exactly what these RSJ Yonderlust Tours are…
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The Hospitality Gene
PETROGNANO, TUSCANY— Last night I was sitting at the long dinner table in our Tuscan villa. Fourteen of my American…
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Gratitude and Candor
At 63, I’m still a work in progress. If you'd asked me at 30, I’d have told you I’d have…
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Sicily 2024
Palermo, Sicily— Travel has a way of opening the world, peeling back the layers of the familiar, and revealing the…
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A Silver Anniversary of Sorts
There’s something comforting about a Saturday night in a Mississippi catfish house. The smell of catfish frying, and the familiar…
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Mississippi You’re on My Mind
“Home is the nicest word there is.” – Laura Ingalls Wilder It's true that there’s no place like home, and…
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The End of an Era
"A river cuts through rock, not because of its power, but because of its persistence." — James N. Watkins The…
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Michelin Dreams and BBQ Realities
My 23-year-old son is starstruck. It's not Hollywood celebrities that have his attention these days—it's the stars awarded by Michelin…
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Labor Day at the Lake: A Family Affair
My iPhone read 8 a.m. when I woke up this morning. For anyone who knows me, that’s quite the feat.…
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Florida 2024
WATERCOLOR, FL— August. The end of summer. It’s that time of year. Since our first child was born, 27 years…
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Core Values
This year has been the year for core values around here. One would think that New South Restaurant Group, a…
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Breadlike Dreams
Young boys dream. In my early years, while friends fantasized about being astronauts, soldiers, and firemen. I wanted to be…
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Ice & Tweezers
My initial exposure to a fine dining restaurant was Galatoire’s in New Orleans. I was probably five or six when…
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Jubilee 2024!
When I was a kid, there always seemed to be chaos surrounding the scramble to get ready for Sunday School.…
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Breakfast By the Bay
SAN FRANCISCO— Whenever I'm in a new city, I always go to the front desk of the hotel and ask,…
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To the Morning
One of the more unique and unusual pleasures of my life is sitting in the stillness of one of our…
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Location, Location, Location
The older I become the more I appreciate crossroads in life. All of us reach different crossroads at various times…
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RSJ’s New Orleans Restaurant Recommendations 2024
NEW ORLEANS— In a poll of national food critics I believe New Orleans would be listed among the top three…
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The Bear Truths
The third season of the Hulu original program, “The Bear” will air this week. If you’re unfamiliar with the series,…
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Father’s Day 2024
By the time this column is published Father’s Day will be several days in the rearview mirror. That may be…
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For the Love of Fish
This month kicked off my 44th year in the restaurant business. The first seven years were spent working for other…
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Big Apple Birthdays
BROOKLYN— Growing up I had relatives in New York. My maternal grandmother and grandfather lived here for 10 years or…
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Simply the Best
For the 26-plus years this column has been in existence I have typed over 1,000 words a week, every week,…
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My Kind Of Town
CHICAGO— No one would ever accuse me of being a creature of habit. Other than my morning breakfast routine, I…
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My Top 25 Cookbooks
The view from my desk is inspirational. I’ve been in the same office for 27 years. There are no windows,…
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Travel Connections
QUEENS, NEW YORK— After 62 years, and millions of miles logged, I have learned that travel is about one thing—…
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A True Magical Mystery Tour
LIVERPOOL— I am midway through a 10-day tour of England and Scotland with a group of 26 Americans. All have…
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RSJ’s Advice to Upcoming Graduates 2024
My advice to upcoming graduates: You are a few years away from beginning your professional life, but you are only…
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If Music Be the Food of Love, Play On
Music has been a constant companion throughout my life. It has accompanied me in times of joy and sorrow and…
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Pizza Ground Zero
BARBERINO-TAVARNELLE, TUSCANY— Naples is the birthplace of pizza. It’s an ancient and historic seaside city that can be a little…
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Birthplace
PETROGNANO, ITALY— It’s true that there’s no place like home, and I deeply and dearly love my hometown of Hattiesburg…
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Oh, Jesse Where Art Thou? — A True Tight Spot
VALENCIA, SPAIN— It was a tight spot. Not in the figurative sense in which one is faced with a challenging…
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Spanish Breakdown
MADRID— The motto of the Boy Scouts of America is to be prepared. That’s all well and good, except I…
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Burgers I Have Known
There are long stretches in my life when I dedicated all my culinary focus, research, development, and meals to fine…
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The Best Job Ever
There are many emotions associated with parenthood. Joy and amusement come to mind immediately. The early responsibilities of parenting can…
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Nobody’s Poet
In the late 1990s I was asked by my local newspaper to write a weekly food column. I politely declined…
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I Love This Business
In the 1985 Ron Howard movie, “Cocoon,” a group of senior citizens from a retirement home break into an abandoned…
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Fried Shrimp
The late great Ella Brennan, long-time matriarch of the New Orleans restaurant scene as head of the Brennan clan— and…
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Cakes Fit For A King
It’s king cake season. Those four words don’t carry a lot of weight across 90% of this country. Though in…
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Good Morning, Hattiesburg
A few weeks ago, an interviewer asked, “Give me a typical day in the life of Robert St. John.” I…
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Next Up in New Orleans
I have often wondered what it must have been like to have attended the Beatles first live performance as a…
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Robert’s Top 10 of 2023
For the 25 years I have written in this space I have always reserved the final column inches of the…
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The Currency of Christmas
Everyone has a favorite holiday. Many of my friends are partial to Halloween. They have fond memories of trick-or-treating through…
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Not Your Typical, Everyday, Run-Of-The-Mill Christmas Message
Let’s talk about failures. The holiday season may seem like a peculiar time to air personal disappointments but stick with…
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Cousin Jim
They buried my cousin last week. He was sent to his reward with full military honors in one of the…
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Mississippians Feeding Mississippians
It is said that Texans have an unparalleled pride for their state. My wife grew up there and my father-in-law…
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It Takes a Village (or at least a dedicated team)
There are a lot of factors that go into the process of writing, testing, re-testing, editing, photographing, re-editing, styling, re-re-editing,…
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All In the Family
BARBERINO-TAVARNELLE, TUSCANY— It could be said— and probably has often been said— that I am a slow learner. It took…
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From A Hot Dog Cart
BARBERINO-TAVARNELLE— This week will mark the final week of my most recent work stint in Italy. I host tours in…
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When In Rome (mostly)
BARBERINO-TAVARNELLE, TUSCANY— One of the travel codes I abide by is the when-in-Rome-do-as-the-Romans-do dining philosophy. No matter where I am…
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Tuscan Son
BARBERINO-TAVERNELLE, TUSCANY— I first came to this part of the world in 2011 on a three-week stopover with my wife…
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It’s All Lessons All the Time
It’s funny how at different ages I have assumed I had life completely figured out. When I was 19 no…
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Breakfasts Abroad
PALAERMO, SICILY— Ten weeks out of each year I work over here leading tours of Americans through European countries. It’s…
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It’s Good Work If You Can Get It
“Far and away the best prize that life has to offer is the chance to work hard at work worth…
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An Engagement to Remember
This past weekend was a memorable one for our family. Our 26-year old daughter got engaged to her longtime boyfriend.…
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Wonderland
Everyone has a personal wonderland. When my brother visits a hardware store, a garden center, or a tackle shop he…
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The Blue Crab Invasion of 2023
Featured image: "Crabs" by Wyatt Waters, from our book A Southern Palate One of the most frequent questions I am…
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RSJ’s New Orleans Restaurant Recommendations 2023
NEW ORLEANS— In a poll of national food critics I believe New Orleans would be listed among the top three…
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My Latest Addiction
Let's talk about addiction. I know what you’re thinking. Ol’ St. John is about to ramp up all that recovery…
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If These Walls Could Speak
“If these old walls could speak Of things that they remember well, Stories and faces dearly held” – Jimmy Webb…
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How Tuna Came to the Panhandle
WATERCOLOR, FLORIDA— Once a year I bring my wife, our kids, and their friends to the Panhandle of Florida to…
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Potatoes, Peas, Popcorn, and Pancakes (but not all at once)
A few weeks ago, I wrote that 2023 will go down as the summer of watermelon. I mentioned how I…
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Ten Things I’ve Learned Opening a Bakery
I am opening a bakery today. Opening any style of restaurant is one of the most stressful activities one will…
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A Good Foot Forward
Last week I read an online article about feet. I can’t remember where I read it, or from which website…
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Watermelon 2023
Cartoon by Marshall Ramsey If I were to make a list of my favorite fruits, it would be extensive. Peaches…
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Good Things Come to Those Who Wait
“The best things in life come from patience.” – Author Unknown As a kid I grew up across the street…
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Happy Birthday, America
If I were asked to rank the holidays my family and I celebrate, Christmas would go down as an easy…
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Mississippi
Texans are often recognized for the pride that they have in their home state. I get that. Not because I…
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A Former Fruit Cart at A Century
Some people judge towns by their population. Others judge them by amenities such as parks and playgrounds. Many consider school…
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It’s A Tough Job but Somebody’s Got To Chew It
“No one trusts a skinny chef.” In my business— if you posess the body style I walk around with every…
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Friends On the Level and Restaurants Off the Track
Everyone has “that” friend. He or she is the friend that doesn't sugarcoat his or her comments. It's a straight-talking…
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Small Town Guy
“I cannot forget from where it is that I come from Cannot forget the people who love me Well, I…
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Windy City Rendezvous
CHICAGO— I have been coming to this city almost every May for the past 35 years. This time of year…
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TO THE MISSISSIPPI GRADUATES OF 2023
“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?” —Mary Oliver It’s graduation…
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A Bridge Not Too Far At All
YPRES, BELGIUM— Friendships in the 21st Century carry a different dynamic. A constant connection throughout the World Wide Web has…
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The Curious Case of a Sliding Door Monopoly Game
AMSTERDAM— A sliding door moment is a seemingly inconsequential action that alters the trajectory of future events. I am sitting…
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Pondering Chips
BARBERINO-TAVARNELLE, TUSCANY— Things are different over here. It’s not just the language. Spaces are smaller. Roads are tighter. Bathrooms are…
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An Easter to Remember
PETROGNANO, TUSCANY— Most of my early childhood memories come from Christmas and Easter. If I let my memory go back…
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Perfect Simplicity
Sometimes the simplest things give me the most satisfaction. That probably seems like an obvious statement to most. I have…
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A Lifetime Love Affair
TAVARNELLE, TUSCANY— My love of bakeries goes back as far as my episodic memory will allow. The earliest bakery recollection…
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Porcine Paradise
SEVILLE— Travel is situational. I could almost end this column with that first sentence. That sums up everything I am…
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When Irish Eyes Are Smiling in Spain
MADRID—Irish pubs have always intrigued me. The attraction doesn’t come from the typical things one expects from a pub. I’m…
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Seasons in Mississippi
“Live in each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to…
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Easy Bake Memories
The year was 1968. It was my 7th Christmas. Also, the first Christmas after my father died. The only thing…
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Neck Deep In King Cake Development
It looks like 2023 will go down as the year of the king cake— at least in my book. I…
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An Unbalanced Force in the Foothills
BLACKBERRY FARM— A portion of Newton’s Law of Motion states, “An object in motion remains in motion at a constant…
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A Golden Opportunity
To be successful in the restaurant business it takes total commitment and sacrifice. It's a brutal way to earn a…
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It’s A Tough Job but Somebody’s Got to Chew It
“A party without cake is just a meeting” –Julia Child It started as a whim. It ended as a quest.…
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Breakfast, Routines, and Bacon
Many of the business books I am familiar with go into great detail about how successful people commit to a…
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Restaurant People
It is my belief that some people are born with their life’s mission already implanted deep in their DNA. Just…
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Local Hopes
NEW ORLEANS— The practice of making New Year’s resolutions is something that has never interested me. I guess I have…
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RSJ Top 10 Meals 2022
For the 22 years I have written in this space, I have always reserved the final column inches of the…
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RSJ’s Top 10 Christmas Movies
Nothing quite matches the energy and excitement one experiences as a kid during the Christmas Eves of his or her…
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My Top 20 Christmas Songs
Music has always been a huge part of my life. It surprises me that— in the 23 years I have…
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Pass the Crackers (and the butter, and the slaw, and the comeback), Please
Appetizers are often the most interesting part of a restaurant menu. I could live in the appetizer section, alone, and…
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My Favorite Season
It has been said that the four seasons in Mississippi are— almost summer, summer, still summer, and Christmas. I have…
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Home Is Where the Realized Nouns Are
L. Frank Baum nailed it when he penned the line, “There’s no place like home,” in his novel about the…
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Restaurantsick
BARBERINO-TAVARNELLE, TUSCANY— Yesterday I was having a conversation with one of my travel guests who was talking about being homesick…
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RSJ’s Tuscan Top Ten
Barberino-Tavarnelle, Tuscany— For the past 11 years I have spent considerable time in this region. Specifically in the two towns…
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Home Away From Home
BARBERINO-TAVARNELLE, ITALY— Is it possible that one can fall in love with a town? I love my hometown of Hattiesburg,…
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Sometimes I Feel Like a Magpie
PETROGNANO, TUSCANY— A few months after my wife and I started dating, she wanted me to meet her grandmother. We…
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It Takes A Village (or at least a couple of Dutch People and several Italians)
BARBERINO-TAVERNELLE, TUSCANY— There’s a big difference between a tour host and a tour guide. A tour guide goes through rigorous…
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All Roads Lead to Rome, They Really Do
ROME— If 2022 had a personal theme created specifically for me, it would be decorated in the green, white, and…
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The 32nd Anniversary of My 29th Birthday
Yesterday I entered my 62nd year on the planet. The thing about turning 61 years old is that I thought…
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Another Blessing
This morning I read a Business News Daily article that listed the most stressful jobs in America. Enlisted military personnel…
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A Different Kind of Welcome
NEW YORK— I first came to the city sometime in the mid-1960s. My grandparents lived here. My father had recently…
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In Search of Voice
For the majority of the 23 years, I have written this weekly column, the primary focus has been on food…
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Random Thoughts on a Tuesday Morning
For the past 23 years, I have written a 1,000-word column every Monday morning. Always early in the morning. I…
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In Honor of Mississippians
“To understand the world, you must first understand a place like Mississippi.” – William Faulkner “Work hard and be kind…
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The Best Job, Ever
If I carried a business card, there would be a lot of job titles listed on it— restaurateur, author, producer,…
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Enter Enzo
Forty years ago, I worked my first shift in a restaurant. It was almost the first hour, of the first…
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RSJ’s New Orleans Restaurant Recommendations 2022
NEW ORLEANS— This city is, unquestionably, one of the top five restaurant cities in America. I would imagine that if…
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Support Your Local Catfish House
We are a nation of regional dining concepts and local dishes. Chicago has deep-dish pizza parlors. New Orleans has po-boy…
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The Restaurant Family Takes a Vacation
Last week I spent seven days in the Florida Panhandle on “vacation.” I used the word “vacation” because that is…
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Vacation Food
It's always interesting to me how we enjoy some foods only during certain times of the year or on certain…
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Welcome to America, My Dutch Friend
There is something deep inside of me that enjoys hosting people. It borderlines a compulsion or obsession. I've been that…
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Giving Credit Where Credit Is Due
Last Friday I wrapped up a photo shoot for my new cookbook, “Mississippi Mornings.” It's a book I've wanted to…
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Harry’s Homecoming
I am a fan of first lines in books. But I also like the last lines in movies. In the…
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A Blunt Request
Everyone needs at least one friend who is frank and to the point. Someone who speaks their mind no matter…
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Mississippi Mornings, The Photo Shoot Begins
Over the course of the past 20 years, I have written 11 books. Four were collaborations with my friend and…
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The Great Bakery Expedition of 2022
Some men dream of playing the back nine at Pebble Beach. Others dream of bagging that big buck or landing…
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Chicago 2022
CHICAGO— I first came to this city over 30 years ago. I fell in love with Chicago instantly. There was…
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Bowling, Movies, and the Restaurant Biz
“What's it like owning a bowling alley?” That's a question I am asked a lot these days. To be honest,…
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To the Mississippi Graduates of 2022
It’s graduation season. This year’s high school seniors have experienced an extremely uncharacteristic high school career filled with Zoom classes,…
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Home Again
It’s great to be home. I have spent the last two months overseas. First in Spain leading a group of…
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Arrivederci
TAVARNELLE VAL D’PESA, TUSCANY— A little over six weeks ago I boarded a flight for Spain to spend 10 days…
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Tuscany Top Ten
PETROGNANO, TUSCANY— There are several places I have considered my second home over the years. In my youth I spent…
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The A Team in Italy
PETROGNANO, TUSCANY— It all starts with a lady named Annagloria. In 2009 I started planning a long trip that would…
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Harrison In Florence
PETROGNANO, TUSCANY— For the good part of the past decade I have hosted groups of American travelers— mostly Southerners— in…
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Nine Days of Spain in 1,182 Words
SEVILLE— Nine days into this Spanish deep-dive, I find myself sitting in the front jump seat of a tour bus…
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Yonderlust: Spain Week One
MADRID— I spent the final month of 2011 in Spain. I was nearing the end of a six-month sojourn with…
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Sweet Roll Swan Song
December is considered the month for giving in these parts, but something is going on in February. Last week I…
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The Notebook
It doesn't take much to make me happy these days. My wife might argue with that statement, but it’s true.…
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The Great Pot Roast Cookoff of 2022
So, there’s this thing called a “Mississippi Pot Roast.” I’ve seen it pop up on my social media over the…
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King Cake Bread Pudding
I really don’t know when it started, or who came up with the idea. It could have been me. Or…
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The Class Reunion
For the 22-plus years I have written this weekly column I have focused mainly on food and travel. Occasionally I…
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Recipe Inspiration
Recipe inspiration comes from many places. In the early days of our first restaurant, I ended up in the kitchen…
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It’s Good Work If You Can Get a Hobby
My 45-year working career has been varied and full. The first official paying job I held (after three years of…
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Breakfast for Supper
When I was a child there were several absolutes growing up in my mother’s home. There were the obvious good-manner…
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RSJ’s Top 10 for 2021
For the past 20-plus years, my final column in December is always a list of the top dining experiences I…
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The Wish Book
As a child I started thinking about what I wanted for Christmas around the Fourth of July. I reached a…
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Radio Days
My neighbors a few doors down started decorating their yard for Christmas a couple of decades ago. At first it…
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Wake-Up Call at A Gift Shop
It is book season. For many people, that’s the time of year when summer paperbacks are released, or the holiday…
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Walter Anderson, A Free Man
There are three constants that have been ever-present in my life from day one— food, music, and art. For the…
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All About the Mouse
ORLANDO— I have had a long history with this city. In the summer of 1972, when I was 10 years…
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On the Road Again
ORLANDO— Sometime in the next few weeks I’ll be opening a new restaurant, bar, and tiki bar in the Fondren…
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Legends and Icons
The chances of being in the presence of genuine, iconic, living, breathing, legends are few and far between, if ever…
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30 Minutes in the Grocery Store And A Lifetime of Poor Food Choices
Last week I was walking around a New Orleans grocery store with my daughter helping her re-stock her apartment, which…
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Thanksgiving Turkeys and Extra Table
Thanksgiving is my favorite non-religious holiday. It's not even close. I guess it's been that way as long as I…
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World-Class Views
PETROGNANO-SEMIFONTE, ITALY— Customers judge restaurants by many criteria. I once read a survey in which a majority of the people…
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It’s A Tough Job But Somebody’s Got To Chew It
PETROGNANO-SEMIFONTE, TUSCANY— The first tour I ever led was seven years ago. My friend, Andy Wiest, a history professor and…
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A Birthday to Remember
PETROGNANO-SEMIFONTE, TUSCANY— My mother used to speak disparagingly of grown men who kept changing careers later in life. Even as…
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Honor Your Hometown
Grab a broom and a dustpan because I am about to drop some names. My friend Marty Stuart, country music…
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Steak Night
"RSJ’s Andouille-Stuffed Carpetbagger Steak” Photo Credit: Joey DeLeo From the book “New South Grilling” by Robert St. John, Hyperion 2007 I…
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Trying To Reason with Hurricane Season
For the past 22 plus years I have written this column on Monday mornings. I usually get to my office…
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Extra Table 2021
For the past 22 years I have written this weekly column, 1000 words a week, 52 weeks a year, never…
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The Return of the Wienermobile
They say, “You can never go back.” I don’t know who “they” are, but last week I actually went back,…
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A Different Kind of History Lesson
When I am leading tours, especially in the Italian region of Tuscany, I'm always amazed at how much history we…
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Christmas In July
We opened our first restaurant in 1987. When we started the work that September, we had no opening date in…
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Legacy Recipes
The late great American chef and icon, Paul Prudhomme created and developed thousands of recipes in his lifetime. His books…
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Inspiration
Inspiration sometimes comes from the strangest places. I can watch a movie and pick up on one three-minute scene that…
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Florida Food Journal II
For the second time in two weeks my schedule took me to the Panhandle of Florida to deliver a speech…
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Southern Seasons
“There is a time for everything, and a season for everything under the heavens.” – Ecclesiastes 3:1 It’s true, everything…
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The Classics
DESTIN, FL— Sometimes people get dazzled by the shiny things. Everyone wants to go to the new hot place. More…
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The Airstream
In 2020, America was running out of chicken tenders, masks, hamburger meat, hand sanitizer, and plastic gloves. But we were…
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Memorial Day 2021
Author’s Note: This column is being written on Memorial Day. Due to the publishing schedules of the various newspapers in…
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The Journal
Last week I was in New Orleans enjoying a bowl of gumbo by Lake Pontchartrain— at my go-to place for…
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The Next Generation
This year marks my 40th year in the restaurant business. I got into this business after flunking out of college…
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To the Mississippi Graduates of 2021
It’s graduation season. Granted, this year’s high school seniors have experienced an extremely weird junior and senior year. But the…
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RSJ’s New Orleans Restaurant Recommendations 2021
NEW ORLEANS— This city is, unquestionably, one of the top five restaurant cities in America. I would imagine that if…
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Daddy-Daughter Breakfast
As I head into my 60th year, I am amazed as I look back on life and reflect on the…
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The King of All Breakfast Foods (In honor of the Queen of Pancakes)
I am a bonafide breakfast person. I was born a breakfast person, all through my early school years I was…
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Feeding Methodists
This past Sunday was the first Easter Sunday in which I have missed attending a church service in a long…
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Help Is on the Way
One year ago today, my life seemed to be at a complete standstill. The global pandemic was shifting into second…
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Culinary Carpe Diem and Bread, the King and Queen of All Carbs
Last week I received the sad news that Barbara Thomas, of Barbara’s Home Cookin’ in Franklin, Tennessee, passed away. Thomas…
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Visionaries and Pies
Bar owner Neal Bodenheimer is an intrepid trailblazer. It takes courage and nerve to go into an uncharted New Orleans…
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The Simplicity of the Perfect Potato
If I could only choose one vegetable to eat for the rest of my life the choice would be easy.…
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My New Toaster
If someone were to put a contract hit out on me, it might be the easiest termination in hitman history.…
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Not Just Another Dinner
This column is written in the afterglow of a special weekend. I just spent the past few days with my…
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Restaurant Honeymoons
There are two types of honeymoons. The relational kind that one experiences as a newlywed, full of bliss and joy,…
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A Mad Day Out
Anyone who knows me knows that I am a huge fan of the Beatles. Anyone who knows Beatles history knows…
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Claws and Wings
Some of the restaurant world’s greatest food items have come from mistakes, near mistakes, the need to use by-products, and…
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Soft Openings
In my 40-year restaurant career I have been a part of 22 new-restaurant openings. Three of those were at the…
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Extra Table, What A Year It Was
In a year in which it seems the headlines are filled with endless negative and controversial news stories, I thought…
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Goodbye 2020
Around this time of year newspapers are filled with end-of-the-year wrap-up stories about what has happened over the past 12…
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RSJ’s Top 10 for 2020
For the past 20-plus years, my final column of the year is always a list of the top dining experiences…
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Time Is Running Out for Independent Restaurants
In a few days, I will enter my 40th year in the restaurant business. Just over 33 of those years…
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Easy-Bake Oven 2020
Two days ago, a friend made a Facebook post that referenced the Christmas section of the old Sears Catalogue that…
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Recipe Testing
Over the course of my 38-year restaurant career I have been a part of 21 restaurant/bar openings. Three of those…
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Extra Table 2020
This is the season of giving. We give gifts, we give of our time, and we give food. For decades,…
Read moreThanksgiving 2020
It’s the season of gratitude. Despite all of the problems and challenges the year 2020 has thrown in our paths,…
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Lunch With Jill
“A man can eat his dinner without understanding exactly how it nourishes him.” – C.S. Lewis Despite the pandemic, there…
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The Community Council
The corporate vision statement of the New South Restaurant Group states, “We exist to support our co-workers, delight our guests,…
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A Match Made in the Restaurant
My Twitter bio reads, “dad, husband, citizen, restaurateur, 70% water (10% gravy), enthusiastic traveler, world-class eater, and a lover of…
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Life’s Short
There was a comical saying that made the rounds with my mother’s generation, “Life’s short, eat dessert first.” As a…
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It’s A Tough Job but Somebody’s Got to Chew It
There are several stages in the life of a restaurant. The earliest stage is the research and development stage. Research…
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Muz’s Pancakes
A wise person once said, “The past is in your head. The future is in your hands.” If that’s the…
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Wandering Westward Vol. III
Life on the road is all about attitude. I have never minded road travel. I was raised by a single…
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Notes from the Road: Westward Wandering Part II
JACKSON HOLE, WY— The wife and I have been on the road for nine days. Just two people, one truck,…
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Wandering Westward Vol. I
“Go west young man.” – Horace Greely ST. LOUIS— For the past several years I have spent three months each…
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Restaurant Mornings
“Without great solitude, no serious work is possible.” –Pablo Picasso Mornings are magical in an empty restaurant dining room. There…
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A Red Revival of the First Order
Birdwatching seems like a strange hobby to me, but I have friends who do it, and they are fine people.…
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Farewell. Thank you. Onward.
Last week was one of the most surreal, yet rewarding, weeks I have spent in my 38-year restaurant career. Tuesday…
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A Heartfelt Farewell to An Old Friend
Today I am grateful. Some would think that closing a restaurant one has owned and operated for over 32 years…
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The Panhandle in the Pandemic
WATERCOLOR, FLA— When one reaches a certain age it's easy to look back on life and see where periods of…
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The Closing of K-Paul’s
Yesterday we lost a legend. No one died, but one of this nation's most important restaurants closed permanently. The legendary…
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New Orleans In the Time of Corona
A few months after Hurricane Katrina my wife and I were in New Orleans. For the most part, restaurants were…
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The State of the Restaurant Business 2020
Since the pandemic hit America the question I'm most often asked is, “How are you doing? How are the restaurants?”…
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The Tastes of Summer
Sour Apple Jolly Ranchers taste like my youth. It's true. When I was 10-years old my weekly allowance was $5.00.…
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Squash and Dash
The CFO of our company has a garden. She lives just outside the city limits on a small piece of…
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Special Delivery
If I never have to endure another shelter-in-place order, I will die happy. I just wasn’t wired for such activities.…
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Marching to the Beat of a Different Drummer
Many businesses have been severely affected during the COVID-19 crisis. Restaurants and live-music venues may have been hit the hardest.…
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Dietary Decisions
My son and daughter just finished a semester of college at home, sitting in our pool house. They had it…
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An Overdue Apology
I have a long-overdue apology to make. In the early days of my writing career I used a lot of…
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To the Mississippi Graduates of 2020
It’s graduation season. But in 2020 there will be no commencement ceremonies, no caps, no gowns, no cords, and no…
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Shut-In Shindigs
Critical times inspire creative methods. In the early days of this shelter-in-place, my wife, 22-year old daughter, 18-year old son,…
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When It Rains It Pours
A couple of decades ago, an editor at one of my newspapers called and said, “Robert, we need to work…
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Grilling Lessons
If there is one thing that defines my family’s current situation in the middle of this global pandemic, it’s togetherness.…
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Your Easter Lunch 2020
Hearts of Palm and Artichoke Salad Salad Dressing: 1 Tbl dijon mustard 1 tsp sugar 1 Tbl shallots, minced 3…
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Leadership In Crisis
In the 20-plus years I have written this weekly column I have covered all manner of topics. In the early…
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Freezer Sandwiches and Football
This weekend a friend asked me, “How’s it going?” I said, “I’m walking around Home Depot with gloves on. That’s…
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Our Current Coronavirus Reality
There is a routine I have followed for the last 20-plus years I have written this weekly column. On Monday…
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The Current State of Affairs
March 17, 2020 Good morning, everyone. We are living in strange, and scary times. The atmosphere around the restaurants is…
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The Bon Ton Café
A week ago this morning, I was in New Orleans on a quick getaway with my wife. While reading the…
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Column Notes
For the past 20 years, this column has covered hundreds of topics, some obscure, some newsworthy. It’s mostly a food…
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The Best Kind of Date
It’s amazing to me how some parents have it figured out automatically and from the start. Some just get it.…
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The American Dream
Several years ago, country music legend, and noted Mississippian, Marty Stuart, and I were on the dais of a radio…
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The Early Days
Just a little over 32 years ago, I was a few weeks into the honeymoon phase of my first restaurant…
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A Fateful Ride
Last week a Facebook ad crossed my timeline in search of recent college graduates who might be interested in driving…
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Croissants
There is a game I play with a few of my foodie friends. It’s based on the question: “If you…
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Shrimp, Smoke, & Shirley
In the 1960s and early 1970s of my youth there wasn’t a lot of dining out in my family. Most…
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Orange Memories
There are many ways to sum up a person’s personality and character. Attaching labels to them is a shortcut, but…
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RSJ Top Ten 2019
Each year I compile a list of the top 10 dining experiences I enjoyed throughout the previous year. The list…
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Merry Christmas
For the 20-plus years I’ve written this column I have not written about my faith very often. I feel that…
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The First Christmas Bonus
Last night we held our 32nd annual manager’s Christmas dinner. There were 30 people seated at the table for our…
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An Atypical Tuscan Farewell (Or How Annagloria Saved the Day)
3:59a.m. Barberino Val d’Elsa, Tuscany— I am dead asleep in the small apartment below Villa il Santo. The pizza I…
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Home Away From Home
BARBERRINO VAL D’ELSA, TUSCANY— My friend, collaborator, and business partner, Wyatt Waters, and I are working back in Italy this…
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Memories and the Greatest Trick Ever Played on Kids
Memories are the fuel that ignite and continually stoke this column. I have written in this space for over 20…
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RSJ’s Thanksgiving Feast
Asparagus Casserole 1 Tbl Olive oil, light 2 Tbl Onion, minced 1 Tbl Shallot, minced 2 Tbl Celery, minced 1/2…
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Thanksgiving and The Five Fs
The primary and traditional American holidays are Christmas, New Year’s, Valentine’s, Easter, Fourth of July, Halloween, and Thanksgiving. I enjoy…
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The Personality of Food
“Donuts are the funnest food.” That’s what my friend, co-collaborator, and business partner Wyatt Waters says. He’s right you know.…
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Dogs and Cars and Problems
There is a scene from my childhood that replays in my head often. It’s not of me crossing the goal…
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50 Shades of Foodservice
masochist | ˈmazəkəst, ˈmasəkəst | noun. (in general use) a person who enjoys an activity that appears to be painful…
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How School Lunches Were Changed Forever
Several years ago, I was speaking to a group of high school students in the cafeteria of their school. On…
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The Wind-Up
NAPLES, ITALY— Wyatt Waters and I have just finished leading two tour groups through Rome, The Amalfi Coast, and Naples.…
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A Place of Solitude
SANTO STEPHANO DI SESSANIO— Wyatt Waters and I are the end of a four-day break between leading two Palate to…
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A Gratitude-Filled Amalfi Morning
PRAIANO, AMALFI COAST, ITALY— “I believe that God lives on the beach, but only at sunrise. In the heat of…
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Of Friends and Wandering
ROME— We are back in this city by popular demand. We are not a film project or a theatre production,…
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The TV and the Meal Ticket
The only thing stronger than the appetite of a teenage boy is the appetite of several teenage boys. In my…
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Squashing Recipe Development
Recipe inspiration comes from many places. Sometimes it’s a thought out of thin air. Many times inspiration comes while dining…
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New Orleans Favorites
Two years ago, I spent several months eating my way through New Orleans to compile a four-part series of my…
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A Letter to My Son His Freshman Year of College
Exactly 40 years ago this week I began my freshman year of college. My entire life was ahead of me…
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Vacation Foods
Food tastes better on vacation. I don’t know the psychology behind that premise, but it’s true. In the days before…
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The Grand Tour
Marina Mengelberg is a Dutch-born Italian tour guide who lives in the heart of Tuscany. My friend, business partner, and…
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Hospitality
The first spiritual gifts test I took as a part of a church group came back and listed my primary…
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Mac & Cheese
There were a lot of crappy foods in my childhood meal rotations— cereals with way too much sugar, cheap meats,…
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Summer Weddings
We are smack dab in the middle of wedding season. The American South is a brutal place to host a…
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The Best Decision My Mom Ever Made
Memories come in all shapes, sizes, sounds, smells, and sights. Occasionally a song strikes a note that trips a memory,…
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Father-Son Road Trip (before college) 2019
LAS VEGAS— Road trips have existed since the wheel was invented. In the Italian villa we take our travel groups…
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My Biggest Regret
Author’s Note: Portions of the following column are included in a foreword I wrote for the upcoming book, “Life Lessons…
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My Mississippi Childhood Summer Top 10
A few weeks ago, I wrote a column about how certain senses are inherently connected to my memory. The strongest…
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Cooking with Dad
“Dad, can we cook supper together tonight?” Are there any more beautiful words in the English language? Well, probably, but…
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Daddy Breakfasts
Every parent has a go-to breakfast. In our house, my wife typically makes the before-school morning meal. Most days, I…
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Jolly Senses
My senses are strongly connected to my memory. Something as small as a single thought can trigger a vivid recollection.…
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Just Peachy
As I look at important calendar dates throughout the year— Christmas, Easter, my anniversary, my wife’s birthday, my kid’s birthdays,…
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Graduation 2019
Eighteen years ago— almost to the day— my wife and I were at the hospital awaiting the birth of our…
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Mississippi On My Mind
“I think I hear a noisy old John Deere In a field specked with dirty cotton lint And below the…
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Small Italian Spaces
It’s good to be back home in Mississippi. The adjustment period is over. The jet-lag is gone, and I have…
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There’s No Place Like Home
A few years ago, I spent a week in Northern California with a group of people who were gathered together…
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One Who Has Wintered Well
TAVARNELLE VAL D’PESA, ITALY— For the past two decades my body weight has fluctuated substantially, up and down, gaining and…
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Dateline: Tuscany, Deadline: Now
TAVERNELLE VAL D’PESA, ITALY— Years ago, when I first came to Tuscany, I wrote a few columns about how this…
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Wedding Throws
I was the best man at my best friend’s wedding last weekend. It was a great event, and everyone who…
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Speed Eating
My son eats too fast. He likely acquired that habit from his old man. I don’t know from whom I…
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Breakfast Guys
Some people are outdoors enthusiasts, some are hunters, others are fishermen. There are golfers, and skiers, and bird watchers. Some…
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Sunday Buffet Dash
I am a Methodist because my grandfather owned a pair of shoes. True story. Thomas St. John was the oldest…
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Back In the Saddle
The restaurant business is a harsh mistress. She is brutal on your mental and physical health, and very demanding of…
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School Day Photos
It’s school day picture season and I am nearing the end of a 12-year photographic adventure with my son. The…
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Lessons Learned
Life is full of unexpected twists and turns. One of the most unforeseen and fascinating aspects of life is how—…
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It’s the People
There are hundreds of reasons why love the restaurant business. Seriously, if asked I believe I could sit down and…
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The Year of the Independent
Let’s make 2019 the year of the independent. For the past three years, I have worn a homemade pin on…
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RSJ’s Top 10 of 2018
Each of the 20 years I have written this weekly column, I have always finished the year by listing the…
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RSJ’s Christmas Eve Dinner
Pork Tenderloin with Muscadine Glaze 2 Tbl Olive Oil 1 Tbl Unsalted Butter 3 Pork Tenderloins (about 1 1/2 pounds)…
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The Cold Shower Happy Hour
MILAN, ITALY— “We don’t have your rooms, Mr. St. John.” Those are the words a tour leader never wants to…
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5232 Miles
VILLA IL SANTO, TUSCANY— December is the “slow period” over here. The grapes have all been picked. The olives have…
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Tuscany 2018
BARBARINO VAL D’ELSA, TUSCANY— I sit and write this column at 10:15 p.m. in a one-thousand-year-old converted barn while 14…
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Corner Market
My uncle and his wife were diehard Francophiles. He was originally from my hometown of Hattiesburg, Mississippi. After his undergraduate…
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Daylight Savings Time
I “fell back” yesterday. I didn’t hurt myself. No neck brace, stitches, or crutches were needed. I fell back in…
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For the Love of Cream Cheese
This past weekend, we hosted a small gathering of friends. My wife had worked hard to prepare several dips, spreads,…
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Community Tables
The first time I ever sat at a community table was in the early 1980s at Paul Prudhomme’s legendary restaurant,…
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Magical Mississippi Tour 2018 Recap
There is a substantial case of wanderlust deep in my soul, and the call to travel has always been strong…
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MAGICAL MISSISSIPPI TOUR
The Beatles were such a huge part of my childhood that they filter through almost every aspect of my life—…
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The Hushpuppy Whisperer
Over the past 30 years, I have met a lot of people in my line of work. A lot of…
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Get Off of My Lawn and Start Eating Cereal Again
There is a national crisis afoot and it has nothing to do with taxes, trade, or immigration. Breakfast cereals are…
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It’s All About the Food
A few years ago, I read a restaurant survey that ranked customer’s priorities when dining out. The study listed food,…
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Six Dinner Guests
A couple of decades ago I wrote a column that posed the question, “If you could have dinner with six…
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Mary Virginia
Over the past 30 years our company has been busy. We’ve opened fine dining restaurants, New Orleans-themed restaurants, an Italian…
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Community Cafes
Community cafes and diners are a dying breed. Years ago, people gathered for breakfast in small cafes in downtown areas.…
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Honeymoons
If someone is keeping track of honeymoons, mark me down for 23. That might be a lot of honeymoons, though…
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Careers and Crushes
Some people know at an early age what they want to do with their professional life and career. The first…
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Opening Nightmares
On a recent list of the most stressful jobs of 2018, Aimee Picchi of CBS News listed (in order from least to…
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The ABCs of My Youth—Avocados, Bowens, and Curry
The culinary world has evolved in many ways over the course of my lifetime. We have moved from using lard…
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Ch-Ch-Ch-Changes
Life is full of changes. From the moment we are born until the day we die, our bodies, minds, and…
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The History of the Party According to Robert
My earliest memory is of a cocktail party my parents were hosting in the living room of our small home…
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Williamsburg 2018
WILLIAMSBURG, VIRGINIA— It’s crunch time in the pre-opening phase of our new restaurant, but I peeled away to Virginia for…
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Pineapple Sherbet
Times change, it’s inevitable. People change, it’s inescapable. The seasons don’t change. They come and go as they always have.…
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Summer Peaches and Bare Feet
Years ago—as a small child in the south—the change of seasons meant nothing to me. The four seasons of my…
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The Breakfast Rut
Last year I made a commitment to start an annual four-part summer column series that featured my top-10 New Orleans…
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Chicago 2018
CHICAGO— Almost every year since 1988, I have made a late-May journey up here to attend the National Restaurant Association’s…
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My South 2018
Over twenty years ago my hometown newspaper called my office and asked if I would be interested in writing a…
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Tuscany 2018 (Part V) The Last Day
SEMIFONTE, TUSCANY— Wyatt Waters and I arrived in Tuscany around the first of April. It was still cold. The grapevines…
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Tuscany 2018 (part IV) Bagnoli
TAVARNELLE VAL di PESA, TUSCANY— No matter where I am in the world— if it’s morning— I can usually be…
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Tuscany 2018 (part III) The Accidental Tour Guide
PETROGNANO, TUSCANY— There is a line in the 1981 Talking Heads’ song “Once in A Lifetime,” in which David Byrne…
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Tuscany 2018 (part II) It’s the People
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA, TUSCANY— There is something that attracted me to this place the first moment I set foot on…
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Tuscany 2018 (part I) Home Away From Home
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA, TUSCANY— In a lot of ways I feel like I’m “back home” in this region, and especially…
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In the Beginning
Over the 19 years that this weekly column has been in existence, there have been thousands of column inches spent…
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The Artful Evolution From Restaurateur to Author
Mississippi restaurateur, promoter, arts advocate, and my good friend, Malcolm White, has just released his second book. “The Artful Evolution…
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The Return
It’s 7:05 a.m. on a Friday morning and I’m sitting in the newly reopened Coney Island Café on Main Street…
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Beach Music Through Time
WATERCOLOR, FL— Sitting here in the early morning dark of a rental house’s front porch— while my son and his…
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The Most Memorable Meal
While walking through a gift shop I noticed a magnet attached to a refrigerator door that read, “Nothing tastes as…
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The Visit (Part II) Annagloria and Enzo Do New Orleans
On a lengthy, tour of Europe several years ago my wife and I made lifelong friends while traversing Italy. We…
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The Visit Part I
“To understand the world, you must first understand a place like Mississippi.” Yazoo City native, Willie Morris, often attributed that…
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Country bacon at its best comes from Benton’s
Over the course of my 56 years, I have accumulated a little wisdom. One thing I know for sure is…
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This or That
For as long as I remember I have been playing “this or that” type games with my friends and family.…
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It’s A Tough Job, But Somebody’s Got to Chew It
SEATTLE— I’m in the middle of a 48-hour jaunt to Seattle where I am working with an equipment company who…
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Back on the Farm
BLACKBERRY FARM, WALLAND, TN— My wife and I first came here in the 1990s. We returned for our 10th wedding…
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From A Fruit Cart
Last week a documentary crew representing the Mississippi Bicentennial set up shop in my hometown and asked eight Hattiesburgers to…
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The Parrot at Thirty
When measuring events in history, 30 years is a long time. Wars rarely last that long. Presidential terms are only…
Read moreThree Blessings a Day
I am feeling blessed this morning. It’s a feeling that I’ve experienced a lot lately. It’s not gratitude for monetary…
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Enzo’s Olive Oil
“Start with a little oil in the bottom of the skillet,” I recently told my son, while showing him how…
Read moreThe Two Ladies in My Kitchen
I spent a lot of time in my home kitchen over the holidays. It was loose, stress-free, and entertaining. In…
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RSJ’s Top 10 of 2017
For the 18 years this column has been published, the final entry in December has been an end-of-the-year list of…
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The Plate Talks
VENICE— The first time I ever thought about visiting this city, I almost didn’t. I was in the middle of…
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Fried Shrimp
Dining out in a nice restaurant is a treat. I feel blessed to work in an industry where people come…
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Thanksgiving 2017
They say the older one gets; the faster time seems to move forward. I don’t know who “they” are, but…
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On the Road
Wyatt Waters and I are in the middle of the busiest year we have ever experienced. During this this twelve…
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Wild American Shrimp
On an upcoming episode of our new television series, Palate to Palette with Robert St. John and Wyatt Waters, the…
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The Ultimate Home Field Advantage
I don’t watch most televised sports during their regular seasons. I will watch basketball finals (college and pro), the World…
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A Love Letter Home
Mississippi watercolorist, Wyatt Waters and I have just wrapped up the first season of our new television show, “Palate to…
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Steve the Rooster
How much does a rooster cost? Seriously, think about it. The king of the barnyard animals, the master of the…
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Game-Day Breakfasts
The streak is over and it’s hard for me not to feel personally responsible. Last year my son’s high-school football…
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For the Love of Cheese
I defend America’s reputation at every turn. I have encountered rude Europeans over the years who have made snide remarks…
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Janusz of 3000 Days— A Bakery Like A Sitcom
It’s the end of an era and a sorrow-filled day for many in my hometown of Hattiesburg, Mississippi. Chef Janusz…
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RSJ’s Top 10 New Orleans Brunch Spots
The following is the final installment in the four-part summer-column series covering my top-10 dining experiences for breakfast, lunch, dinner…
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RSJ’s Top 10 New Orleans Dinner Spots
The following is the third in a four-installment summer-column series covering my top 10 dining experiences for breakfast, lunch, dinner…
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RSJ’s Top 10 New Orleans Lunch Spots
The following is the second in a four-installment summer-column series covering my top 10 dining experiences for breakfast, lunch, dinner…
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RSJ’s Top 10 New Orleans Breakfasts
The following is the first in a summer-column series that will cover dining in New Orleans. Over the next four…
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Watermelon, Watermelon, Watermelon, Spit!
While dining with friends last week, the lunchtime discussion turned to “What is Mississippi’s most quintessential food?” Several options were…
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RSJ’s Top 10 Summer Foods
Now that we have almost reached August, it seems a perfect time to stop and appreciate the culinary bounty available…
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Bunyan’s Slaw Dog
There are some things that can’t be explained. I can’t tell you how magnets work. I couldn’t begin to describe…
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Food Quirks
As I walked through my kitchen yesterday morning, I noticed my daughter who was hovering over the waste basket, intensely…
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My Kind of To-Do List
NEW ORLEANS— To live 90 minutes away from one of the top restaurant cities in the world is an embarrassment…
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The Ranch Generation
I dozed off for a few minutes and Ranch dressing was crowned the king of all American condiments. I was…
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Late to Tea
What do the creator of the first thesaurus Peter Roget, Colonel Sanders the inventor of the first fried-chicken franchise, and…
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ATTN: Chris Neugent
ATTN: Chris Neugent, President, Post Consumer Brands And/or The Knucklead Who Made the Decision to Abandon Peaches Post Cereal Consumer…
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The Next Step
It’s graduation season. I didn’t speak at a high school commencement ceremony this graduation season, but had I stepped up…
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Dinner with the Boy
On the list of “Things I Love to Do Most,” having a steak dinner with my 15-year old son would…
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Stars and Bars and Parasol Pines
BARBERINO, TUSCANY— Traveling and leading a group of more than 22 people can be challenging. It can also be a…
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Italian Breakfast
TAVERNELLE VAL D’PESA, TUSCANY— My ongoing love affair with breakfast bakeries and pastry shops continues even when I am out…
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Travel Benefits
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA, TUSCANY— I dreamed of travelling as a kid. My parents purchased a set of World Book encyclopedias…
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An Easter to Remember
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA, TUSCANY— The older I get the more I search for authenticity. Often, I find myself attracted to…
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This Travel Gig
Someone once told me to make myself “available for opportunities” and they will “surely come.” It sounded like a bunch…
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RSJ’s Lessons Learned in the Restaurant Biz
The restaurant business is a cruel mistress. She has swallowed and spit out more entrepreneurial dreamers than anyone cares to…
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The Meat Question
America is meat rich. Today we have so much beef that we send thousands of tons of steaks, ground beef,…
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Mississippi’s Top Five Quintessential Foods
As we age our vocabulary grows deeper and more advanced. There are words I use today that were never in…
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Mississippi’s Top Joints (and that’s a good thing)
I love “joints.” Whether I am traveling across America or walking through a small village in Europe, I am always…
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My Longest Love Affair
I love toast. Seriously, if I look back on the course of my eating career, my longest lasting and most…
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King Cake Bread Pudding
King Cake is good. I could end this column with that sentence. Those are the only four words I need…
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The Joys of Fatherhood
My father died when I was six-years old. A single mom raised me throughout my youth and it was fine.…
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The Beauty of Pizza
The older I get the more I appreciate the simple things in life. As the tire around my gut grows…
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Restaurant Soul
My wife and I were dining with friends and the conversation— as it often does in my world— turned to…
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Soup for the Soul
Someone once said that the four seasons in Mississippi are: Almost summer, summer, still summer, and Christmas. Others named the…
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Commodities
The items we assign “value” to tend to change throughout our lives. In 1987, I was 26-years old and had…
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RSJ's TOP 10 of 2016
Every week for 17 years I have written this column, never missing a week. At the end of each of…
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Christmas 2016
Someone once said, “The more things change, the more they stay the same.” I don’t necessarily agree with that. I…
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Faraway Friends
Food Journal December 7th 2016 MILAN— It’s been my experience that the older I get, the more…
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As One Journey Ends, Another Begins
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA, TUSCANY— I sit in an almost empty villa on a Tuscan hillside as I type this column.…
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An Italian Palate Road Trip Part One
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA, TUSCANY, ITALY— I don’t believe in past lives or reincarnation, but if I did I would imagine…
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Game Day Breakfast
I have written often about breakfast being my favorite meal of the day. There is something about the freshness-of-the-morning aspect…
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Cheeseburgers for Thanksgiving
There are six major holidays that receive focus in my family: Thanksgiving, Christmas, Mardi Gras, Easter, the Fourth of July,…
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Brightsen's 2016
With a son who is a sophomore in high school and a daughter who is a sophomore in college, I…
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Hammin’ It Up On Both Sides of the Pond
I have been dreaming of ham, lately. Just this past weekend I was visiting my brother in Madison, Mississippi…
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A Vessel For Everything, and Everything In Its Place
I might be the only southern writer/columnist/author working today who didn’t grow up drinking iced tea. It wasn’t due…
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Montana Travel Diary
Random Notes From My Montana Travel Diary: BIG SKY, MT— Time off is something that I haven’t seen a lot…
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Dessert of the Gods
A few weeks ago I received a call from my friend Andy Chapman, of the Eat Y’all organization. They were…
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Creative Collaboration
If one reads a business book about corporate collaboration there will be many salient points made about how the…
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North vs South
One of the most frequently asked questions I receive is, “What is the difference between Southern cooking and Northern…
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Maw-Maw's Chicken Scam
It’s time to come clean. It’s a known fact, and I have written often, about my first experience cooking in…
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Edible Evil Incarnate
The devil has come to town and he’s wearing a disguise. This devil doesn’t have a red tail and horns.…
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Jumbo Lump Crabmeat
Three of the most beautiful words in the English language are “jumbo lump crabmeat.” Taken on their own the words…
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Hal & Mal’s
Independent restaurants anchor a community. They tell the story of a town and its people much better than a slick…
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Cereal Killers
My love affair with cereal has lasted 54 years. These days I mostly eat oatmeal, which is considered a…
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Bread and Circus (and sugar)
I started a diet a few months ago. The two main offenders I gave up were bread and sugar. It…
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Death By Garlic, Roux, and Macaroni
In 1999, I received a telephone call from the local newspaper, The Hattiesburg American. They asked if I would be…
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RSJ 4 Heimlich 1
Dr. Henry Heimlich performed his famous life-saving maneuver for the first time when he was 96-years old. When I learned…
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Cream Cheese in the 21st Century
My friend Julia Reed once said, “You would never see a naked block of cream cheese in the South. It…
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The Continuing Adventures of Shark Boy
Shark Week is only a few days away. I don’t watch Shark Week on the Discovery Channel, yet I know…
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The Buffet Beast
I don’t dine in buffet restaurants very often. Though a few times a year I like to visit my friend…
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A Sticky Subject
I have two teenagers on the household payroll who think I am absolutely clueless. I feel like I’m fairly “plugged…
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Superpowers
When my son was five-years old one of our favorite games to play was inventing our own superheroes. We would…
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Chicago's Greatest Hits
This is part three in a series on Chicago CHICAGO— Two or three emails land in my inbox each week…
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The Best Donut in Chicago
This is the second column in a three-part series on Chicago restaurants CHICAGO— In the 1990s one of Saturday Night…
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Best Burger On the Planet In My Kind Of Town
Chicago— When lists of the top restaurant cities in America are published, Chicago is usually listed in the top five.…
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Simply The Best
Years ago someone asked me, “Where were you when JFK was shot?” My first reaction was— do I look that…
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Sandwich Season
The weather is beginning to warm and we are heading into sandwich season. Fall and winter are soup seasons. When…
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Sheepshead and Tripletail Beware! Turkeys and Duck, You Are Safe
Mississippi’s greatest pastimes are football, hunting, and fishing. I love football on all levels. It’s a game I know very…
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Rocking and Carpooling and Rocking Out While Carpooling
Of all of the joys and pleasures in life, the unforeseen and unplanned ones seem to ring the truest. Parenting…
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Biscuit Ladies
Chefs are typically known for a signature dish. If someone mentioned boeuf bourguignon, I would immediately think of Julia Child.…
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Gas-Station Sandwiches, Cafeteria Pizza, and Grocery-Store Sushi— One Out of Three Ain’t Bad
“Rusty, get out those sandwiches I got at the gas station. I’m so hungry I could eat a sandwich from…
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Bread Puddings
The pudding family tree has many cousins— summer puddings, Christmas puddings, red puddings, and white puddings. There is hog’s pudding…
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Seagrove Beach, FL
My family doesn’t vacation consistently. We spend a lot of time together as a group on a daily basis, though…
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Sam's Club
I had to make a run to Sam’s Club yesterday morning to purchase 75 pounds of flour for one of…
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Ice, Ice Baby
I dozed off for a minute and ice chests became valuable commodities. A couple of years ago I was stopped…
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Eat In or Carry Out?
Families fall into one or two categories: Dining-in families or dining-out families. I grew up in a dining-in family. My…
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884 Weekly Columns and Still Typing Using Only Three Fingers
Today marks the 17th anniversary of this weekly column. A frequent question I am asked is, “How did all of…
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The Good Old Days
There are two subjects I’d like to cover today: The good old days and clickbait. Let’s start with the latter.…
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The Journey
Parenting comes in phases. No one warns you about that at the beginning. Well, maybe they do, but you’re too…
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Stressed, Swamped, and Happy
Most jobs are stress-filled. Some are more stressful than others. The person working the cotton candy concession at the state…
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Recipe Tasting
The restaurant business is a harsh mistress. The hours are long, the work is stressful, the margins are low, the…
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RSJ’s Top 10 of 2015
For the 17 years that this column has been published I have ended the year with a list of the…
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'Tis the Season
Am I the only one suffering from holiday discombobulation this year? Does it feel like the Christmas season to you,…
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Rainbow Cookies
If one could travel back in time to 1966 in Hattiesburg, Miss., there are three likely locations one would…
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Strange Pairings
During the 1970s there was a multi-year advertising campaign that promoted Reese’s peanut butter cups by showing people in various…
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Holding Back the Years
Opening Caveat: Longtime readers of this column know that I typically go to great lengths not to mention my restaurants…
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An Homage To Breakfast
It is widely known among my family and friends that breakfast is this columnist’s favorite meal of the day. My…
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Notes From A 25% Ham Disciple
After 18 years of parenting I assumed that I had encountered every emotion that goes along with the job. There…
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The Perfect Eating Machine
There was absolutely nothing I wanted to watch on any of the 700 channels I receive as a part of…
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The Liar’s Table
This past weekend I was in Starkville, Mississippi to visit my daughter— a freshman in college— and to catch a…
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It Ain’t A Party Until Someone Breaks Out A Block Of Cream Cheese
At a dinner party at my friend Beth’s house several years ago I was visiting with my lifelong friend Tommy.…
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Round-Table Restaurants
Theme restaurants seem to be on the wane. Most of them reached their peak in the 1990s. Though it’s probably…
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Finger Lickin’ (No) Good
Question of the day: Is there ever a social situation where its OK to lick one’s fingers?
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Gather 'Round the Campfire
Of all of the interesting and evocative aromas in the world, campfires and the smell of a fireplace are easily…
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A Life of Wonderfulness
There are many components that contribute to making Mississippi a great place to live. We have clean air, clean water,…
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Road Trip Meals
How far will you drive for a favorite food item or a meal? My answer is easy: 112 miles. That’s…
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Day-Old Donuts
I have had a lifelong love-hate relationship with donuts. Actually, “hate” would be the wrong word. I have never hated…
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Porch Retreat
My town is still. The roads are quiet. Business is slow. Many people have retreated to their vacation homes for…
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Local Seafood
The Facebook warning stated “Beware of holes in the bottom of your soft-shell crab!” With an opening statement such as…
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A Late-Night Restoration
I am accustomed to travel challenges, but Hattiesburg to Chicago and back in 36 hours with two stints at one…
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The St. John Maneuver
You are a restaurateur and are out of town doing research and development for new menu items and concepts. The…
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Drive Through Craziness
I was talking to a friend this morning and he was lamenting the fact that he couldn't go to a…
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Desporte’s Longing
BILOXI, Miss.— It’s early morning and I’m sitting in my hotel room at the Beau Rivage, 25 floors above the…
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Barbeque Snobbery
I am not a barbeque snob. There are plenty of them out there. Barbeque has grown into quite a booming…
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Prom Season
Prom season is here. For the past three years I have served a formal dinner to large groups of my…
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It Goes So Fast
Being the father of a teenage daughter is a challenge. Gone are the early days when she would climb onto…
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Spring Has Sprung
If I were asked to pick a favorite season of the year it would be a tough call between spring…
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Drive-Through Food
One would have to look long, hard, far, and wide to find a more enthusiastic proponent of local, independent restaurants…
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“Breakfast Guys, Table for Two?”
There are many ways to define a person’s eating habits or style. I am a “breakfast guy.” It’s as simple…
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A Gold Star For Perfect Attendance
Billy Fokakis hasn’t missed a day of work in 31 years. How many people do you know who can make…
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Boarding House Food
In 1982 I was trying to figure out what I wanted to do with my life. I had recently flunked…
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Dispatches From Zone 8
February in South Mississippi is a strange beast. It’s 30 degrees and overcast as I type though in a few…
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When Life Gives You Lemonade
“He’s currently in a lemonade phase,” my wife said. She was halfway across the room talking to someone at a…
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Look Who’s Coming To Dinner
There are several different games I play with family and friends. Most of them have to do with music or…
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Got Ketchup?
Got Ketchup? My son and I were having lunch the other day and he asked me, “Dad, how long has…
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Croats, Oysters, and Giving
Croats, Oysters, and Giving Several years ago I was talking to a professor at the University of Southern Mississippi about…
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Guilty Food Pleasures
Misconceptions abound in the culinary world. There is a strange phenomenon that occurs when I am eating in a burger…
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Reflecting in the Delta
SUNFLOWER FARM, LOUISE, MS— Mark Twain once said that the coldest winter he ever spent was a summer he spent…
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Robert’s Top Ten 2014
Over the course of the 15 years that I have written this weekly column, I have always ended the year with…
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Give Or Receive?
Sometimes it’s better to receive than give. Certainly that falls contrary to everything I have been taught all of my…
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Notes From the Road
This children’s book stuff is a blast. It’s a welcome diversion. I have written 10 books over the past 12…
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Food Firsts
Popcorn is 4,000 years old. That amazes me. If someone ever asked me when I thought popcorn was invented, I…
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Thanksgiving Through The Years
Thanksgiving is almost the perfect holiday. The food is good, family members are gathered, friends are always invited, and football…
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Mississippi
I am in the middle of a book tour. This is the 10th time in 12 years that I have crisscrossed…
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An Lifetime of Frogs
Sitting in a Paris bistro this summer I was taken back to my childhood. The small café was straight out…
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Ode to Bread
I love bread. I really, really love bread. I probably love bread too much. If there were a twelve-step program…
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"Fred The Red Frog" Book Tour
Book Tour 2014 NOVEMBER 5 – NOVEMBER 8 Mistletoe Marketplace . Jackson, MS . Mississippi Trade Mart (Public Signing…
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MS Blues Trail 2014
The Mississippi Blues Trail is an ongoing project of the Mississippi Blues Commission. Funding for this project has…
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Grown-Up Food
A friend recently asked if I thought that there are any foods we outgrow. Aside from the obvious answer, Gerber…
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Mississippi Department of Seasons
Board of Directors Mississippi Department of Seasons Jackson, Mississippi To Whom It My Concern: I need to file a…
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Worldly Cuisine
In 1971 Hattiesburg, Mississippi was a meat-and-potatoes town. It’s not because we weren’t well travelled or suffered from low exposure.…
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Indian Delight
Service, food, or atmosphere? That is the question. Most national restaurant surveys surprisingly list “service” as the customer’s most valued…
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Breakfast at the Underwood’s
They say breakfast is the most important meal of the day. I don’t know who “they” are, but I agree.…
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Ode to Country Ham
I have become bored with lackluster food. I don’t know if it’s an age thing or that my taste buds…
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Shrimp Season
The house was quiet. No one was complaining about having to do chores or negotiating a waiver from cleaning up…
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50th Anniversary Dinner— An Evening To Remember
Our office receives strange telephone calls and odd requests on a weekly basis. The calls usually involve my schedule. I…
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The Hundred-Foot Journey
Movies often reflect reality. Though many times a substantial suspension of disbelief is required. Law enforcement and organized crime are…
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Hometown Jewel
On an unusually warm morning in Paris this past July I woke up early with one mission in mind:…
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The Final Days
This is the final installment of a three-part column series covering the recent Battlefields and Baguettes tour PARIS— I write…
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A Memorable Meal
This is the second of a three-part column series covering the recent Battlefields and Baguettes tour in London, Belgium, Normandy,…
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Five Days In
YRES, BELGIUM-- Five days into the Battlefields and Baguettes tour and everything is running smoothly. I wish I had the…
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Battlefields & Baguettes
The packing has commenced and the two-day scramble to get all “affairs in order” before an international trip has reached…
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Gulf Shores Surprise
“Don’t stand in front of the kitchen door, sir.” I stepped to the side as the server hurried by with…
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The Monthly Meeting of the Little Sandwiches Is Now Called To Order
Southern ladies love a club. Not a club with flashing lights, pulsating music, and fruity cocktails but a club where…
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Chickens, and Sheepshead, and Crabs, Oh My
The world is living off of byproducts and off-cuts, and that’s a good thing. After three decades in the restaurant…
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The Pater Familias & Peanut Butter
Last week I relived my youth on a small sand bar near a bend in the Chatooga River, just upwater…
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Commence the Commencement
It’s graduation season. Sitting at my desk I think back to my graduation. In my mind’s eye I see myself…
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Hole Foods
“I’ll take ‘Foods With Holes’ for $500, Alex.” “This fried yeast bread pastry is heavily glazed with sugar and is…
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Breakfast + Lunch = Good Stuff
Brunch was invented just for me. If not for me, then certainly whoever came up with the amazing idea…
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Toast and Stuff
The older I get the less enamored I am with inanimate objects. As a kid, I loved “stuff.” I could…
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Sweet Potato Confessions
My lifelong love affair with sweet potatoes has been shaken and I have a confession to make. First understand…
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Prom Season
It’s prom season. Thousands of high school kids have been waiting years for their big night. Thousands of parents…
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Spring Forward
It’s greening up around here. The first stage of pollen has fallen and been washed away. Leaves are greener,…
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A Life of Passion & Love
We lose people every day. It’s the natural cycle of life. Many pass without noticing. Though as William Faulkner…
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At Home With Hospitality
I love Mississippi. Sure, there are other states that might be prettier. It’s hard to top the mountain vistas…
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Oh How I Love Wheat
I grew up mainly Methodist in a mostly Baptist world. I was raised in a neighborhood that was filled…
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Dreaming of Tuscany
I once had an aunt and uncle who lived in France for several years. They eventually returned to the States…
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For the Love of Sausage
Bacon is good. Bacon is popular. Bacon gets a lot of press. I love bacon. Bacon gets the prime…
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King Cake Bread Pudding
The food business is seasonal There is a specific time when vegetables are at their peak. No matter where…
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Clementino
“Oh my darling, oh my darling, oh my darling, Clementine.” I spent a few months in Italy a couple…
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Fluidity In Food Development
Food development is fluid. Many times a new dish starts as one thing and ends up being something entirely different.…
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Restaurant Rollouts, Re-Concepts, & Revisions
Restaurant rollouts take coordination. Whether it’s the unveiling of an entirely new concept or the rollout of a new menu,…
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Food Characters
A slice of pizza waved at me yesterday. My family and I were driving down the road and a guy…
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Morning Men
Network and cable television channels are filled with reality television programs. There are shows about Alaskan truck drivers, loggers, moonshiners,…
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The Week Between
Christmas is a magical time, but often, the build-up doesn’t live up to the actual day (or moment). As a…
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Book Signings
Wyatt Waters and I have just wrapped up a book promotion tour completing our 31st book signing in 50 days.…
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Christmas Citrus
A friend dropped by my house last week and gave me several Meyer lemons. They were perfect. The Meyer lemon…
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Extra Table Christmas
The season between Thanksgiving and Christmas is often reserved as a time when we count our blessings. I am…
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Extra Table Christmas
The season between Thanksgiving and Christmas is often reserved as a time when we count our blessings. I am blessed…
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Food & Art
Some consider food to be a form of art. I don’t take food that seriously. I think food can occasionally…
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Food & Art
Some consider food to be a form of art. I don’t take food that seriously. I think food can…
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Pancakes Are Love
I’ve been running hard for two weeks. The book-signing tour for “An Italian Palate” is different than ones in…
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Notes From the Road
The book-signing tour for the new book “An Italian Palate” is in fourth gear and we won’t be downshifting…
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Notes From the Road
The book-signing tour for the new book “An Italian Palate” is in fourth gear and we won’t be downshifting anytime…
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Zing Zang Vegetable Beef Soup
I’m not a soup guy. I didn’t grow up in a soup family. We were devoted disciples…
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An Italian Palate Book Signing Schedule
October 27 Mississippi Museum of Art 1:00pm Jackson, MS October 29 Oddfellow’s Gallery 5:00pm …
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An Italian Palate
Two years ago today I was in Italy. My wife, daughter, son, two good friends and I spent 10…
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Milestones
Someone once told me, “You have to be a masochist to be in the restaurant business.” The guy who…
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Birthday Meal
“My grandmother was the best cook, ever.” That is a testimonial I hear all of the time. It’s usually…
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Rarified Air In the Steak Universe
The most popular interview question I encounter is “What is your favorite dish or meal?” I was asked that…
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Hunger and Obesity
While at a cocktail party a few weeks ago I mentally checked out of the conversation I was…
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Leatha Jackson
This is going to be a hard one to write. Sometimes I sit at my computer before the sun…
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The Age of the Servant Restaurateur
Over the course of a 30-year career in the restaurant business I have met a lot of caring, generous,…
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High Jinks
I was a mischievous kid. It’s not that I was necessarily “bad” or misbehaved, I liked to have fun…
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Jumbo Lump Crabmeat
Three of the most beautiful words in the English language are “jumbo lump crabmeat.” Taken on their own the…
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Buying In Bulk
The Italian method of going to the market on a daily basis holds great appeal to me. It’s how they’ve…
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Honeysuckle Sorbet
CHAPEL HILL, NC— Many argue that the Southern culinary renaissance originated at Crook’s Corner restaurant in this North Carolina town,…
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Regrets? I Have A Few
I am currently finishing up a complete makeover of our 25-year old restaurants. For the past nine months I have…
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Unforgettable Food
I have always had a hunch that food tastes better or worse depending on the vessel in which it is…
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Unforgettable Food
I have always had a hunch that food tastes better or worse depending on the vessel in which…
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Mississippi Darts
Two years ago my family and I were sitting next to two brothers in a small trattoria in Florence, Italy.…
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Whodunit: Bootlegger’s In the Bakery
There is a French bakery across the street from my office. Six mornings a week a Frenchman named Janusz bakes…
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Bun Tiffing
“She ‘tifs’ the buns.” Those four words were one of the greatest culinary mysteries of my childhood. I’m not…
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