Travel journal entry October 8, 2011:
It’s nice to know that every day I drive down a road that has over 2,000 years of history on it’s surface. Via Roma connects Barbarino Val D’Elsa to the larger town of Tavernelle Val Di Pesa.
Yesterday we ate the second best meal we’ve eaten during this six-week journey. There is a little joint on the Via Roma that winds through the town square of Tavarnelle. It’s a coffee shop in the morning, a café in the afternoon, and a pool hall at night. Perfect. The Viola Club (named for the lavender color of the Florence “football” team) is the local hangout for a few dozen 50-80 year old men who might not be practicing Catholics, but are surely practicing card players.
They are there in the morning. They are there at noon, and they are there in the evening. They are a jolly bunch who drink coffee, joke, tease, argue, and play cards.
The first time I went in there, I watched from a corner table as they gave one of the men in their ranks a continual hard time. He endured a few hours of ribbing about his hair treatment. I got the feeling that he had used some type of over-the-counter hair dye recently (very obvious seeing that he was in his late 70s, and his hair was a solid blanket of jet black), and had probably stayed away from his friends at the Viola Club for a few days. I happened to be there on the day of his return and the ribbing was relentless.
His friends kept calling him “Berlusconi” because of the hair dye— a reference to the current Italian Prime Minister. I wanted to film the scene, to try and remember, and they— in a very jovial manner— brought me over and said I should film the Prime minister.
The Viola Club isn’t much to look at, but the food is very good and cheap. Paolo is the sole server. His mother, Giuliana, is the cook, and his father works the bar and the cash register— a true family operated business. The food is excellent and I have gotten several ideas for “An Italian Palate” there.
Ingredients
¼ cup Bacon fat
3 cup Onion, diced
3 cup Carrot, diced
3 cup Celery, diced
½ cup White wine
½ cup Ham, diced
2 tsp Poultry Seasoning (see recipe)
2 tsp House Herb Blend (see recipe)
2 tsp House Seasoning Blend (see recipe)
1 Tbl Worcestershire sauce
2 Tbl Kosher salt
2 tsp Hot sauce
1 tsp White pepper
1 each – 15 oz. can white navy beans, drained, rinsed and pureed with 4 cups pork stock
5 each – 15 oz. can white navy beans, drained, rinsed, kept whole
2 cup Pork stock (see recipe)
¼ cup Pesto
Reserved hock meat from Pork Stock recipe
Instructions
In a stockpot, sauté onion, carrot and celery in bacon fat for 5-7 minutes over medium heat, stirring frequently. Add wine and cook 3-4 more minutes.
Add ham and seasonings and cook 7-8 minutes.
Add the pureed beans, whole beans and the 2 cups of pork stock and bring to a boil. Immediately reduce heat and add the chopped hock meat and pesto. Stir well and simmer for 30-45 minutes.
Quiche is French in origin, so this recipe is probably an abomination to some. My friend David Trigiani is a dual-citizen Italian is always taking a stand in the French food versus Italian food debate.
Heavy whipping cream is a must, and never buy pre-shredded mozzarella. Grate your own. The same goes for parmesan cheese. Never, I repeat never buy that powdery substance in the green can. Invest in a good grater and you'll be a better cook for it.
David lives in Jackson, Mississippi, but spends most of his holidays in Italy. He’s an excellent cook, though I have never eaten quiche in his home. Maybe this will inspire him, and I’ll get an invitation.
I prefer fruit over chocolate after a meal. Orange and cranberries are a perfect pairing, especially during the holidays. This is an excellent and easy dessert after a heavy meal. These can be served individually on small plates or in a casserole for a buffet.
Tripletail has always been my favorite Gulf fish. The old-timers used to say, "If you can see a tripletail, you can catch a tripletail." They have this peculiar habit of floating near the surface around buoys, crab traps, and other floating objects, often lying on their sides and appearing almost lifeless. This behavior makes them easy to spot and, if you're quick with your cast, easy to hook. The meat is mild, white, and flaky—perfect for grilling. Pairing it with lump crab and a chive beurre blanc elevates this dish to something truly special.
