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Robert St. John

Restaurateur, author, enthusiastic traveler, & world-class eater.

Harrison’s Brown Butter Mashed Potatoes

Having a son who’s following in your footsteps is one thing. Watching him take what you’ve taught him and elevate it to something even better—that’s special. During his Christmas break from the Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, New York, a few years ago, he nudged me out of the way and made these mashed potatoes. I was skeptical, of course as I’ve been making mashed potatoes for decades. But there was no question his version was better. There’s a lot of pride in seeing him excel in the kitchen, making something as simple as mashed potatoes taste extraordinary. This recipe has become a new tradition in our family. Watching him cook now, with all that skill and precision, is a proud moment for me every time. This is his recipe, and I’ve adopted it as my own.

Ingredients

4 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
3 sticks salted butter, divided
1 cup heavy whipping cream
2 long sprigs fresh thyme, crushed in your hand to release the oils
1 teaspoon fresh garlic, minced
1 tablespoon kosher salt, divided
2 teaspoons fresh ground black pepper

Instructions

This recipe is part of Robert St. John’s Mississippi Christmas and is available for purchase here.

Serves 6 to 8

Place the prepared potatoes in an eight-quart saucepot and cover with cold water, ensuring the potatoes are submerged by two inches. Add two tablespoons of kosher salt to the water.

Place the pot over high heat and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Drain the potatoes thoroughly and spread them out on a baking sheet. Place the baking sheet in a low oven (200°F) for five minutes to allow the potatoes to dry out slightly. This helps intensify the flavor and ensures a smoother texture.

While the potatoes are drying, prepare the brown butter. In a medium skillet, melt 1 1/2 sticks of butter over medium heat, swirling the pan frequently. Once the butter foams and turns a rich, golden brown, immediately remove from the heat and set aside.

In a small saucepan, heat the heavy cream, thyme, and garlic until just simmering. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to steep for ten minutes. Strain and keep warm.

Pass the dried potatoes through a food mill or ricer back into the pot. Place the pot over low heat, stirring constantly to keep the potatoes warm.

Slowly fold the brown butter into the potatoes, allowing them to absorb the fat completely. Gradually add the warm infused cream, mixing until silky and smooth.

Fold in the remaining 1 1/2 sticks of cold, diced butter, a few pieces at a time, which creates a smooth texture and a glossy finish.

Season with the remaining salt and fresh ground black pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

Serve immediately or keep warm using a bain-marie (water bath) to maintain texture.

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