The French Laundry II

For years I have said that if I were ever asked to choose a “last meal,” I would select my grandmother’s leg of lamb.

With all due respect to my late grandmother, I am amending my last-meal appeal. Sorry, Mam-Maw, my last meal is coming from the French Laundry

The beauty of eating a last meal prepared at The French Laundry is twofold: I would be able to eat the most skillfully prepared, best-tasting, unique, subtle, and creative food, prepared by the nation’s most talented chef— Thomas Keller. It would also be an extremely long (in a good way) dinner.

During my most recent visit to The French Laundry, in Yountville, CA, I spent almost five hours eating sixteen courses of the most remarkable food I have ever tasted. If it’s going to be a last meal, it might as well be prolonged as long as possible and filled with world-class cuisine and unparalleled service.

Actually, I have eaten in Thomas Keller’s restaurants in New York, Las Vegas, and Yountville and have always been blown away by the food and service. On this visit, however, the service was more attentive than it has ever been.

We were a group of six, seated in the private dining room on the second floor and the staff was amazing in their efficiency and attentiveness. I am usually “all about the food.” I can always overlook poor service if the food is good. I appreciate service when performed at a high level, but I’m there to eat. On this night the service was— by far— the best I have witnessed anywhere, anytime, in any restaurant.

The menu highlights for me were the Keller classic Oysters and Pearls, where the chef makes a impossibly subtle “sabayon” of pearl tapioca and pairs it with Island Creek Oysters from Duxbury, Massachusetts and caviar. All of the courses were notable, but my other favorites were an egg custard paired with a truffle overdose (again, in a good way), quail with pine nuts and a cherry sauce, and one of the most delicate meat dishes I have eaten— a “Chateaubriand” of Marcho Farms Nature-Fed Veal with applewood-smoked bacon, Globe Artichokes, and “Sauce Barigoule.”

Three years ago, when I dined at The French Laundry, the sommelier noticed that I wasn’t partaking in the wine pairings and asked if he could create a non-alcoholic pairing to go with each food course. The answer, of course, was “Yes,” and what followed were 13 of the most creative beverage pairings I have ever enjoyed. Actually, at the time, they were the only beverage pairings I had ever enjoyed. I had resigned to a life with still water during this type of meal.

When asked if I would like a beverage pairing by the sommelier on this visit, I was excited to revisit the concept. What followed were beverages that were even more creative and inventive than before. Each drink was concocted on the spot, to pair with each specific course. None had ever been prepared before. The sommelier knocked it out of the park— grand slam, homerun, World Series. I was served such creative beverages as Black Cherry Infused Mint Tea with Cardamom-Anise Gastrique paired with quail, and a Kumquat Sparkler with Ginger-Meyer Lemon Infusion paired with a salad of beets and leeks. Amazing.

While the five other guys in my group were being served rare wines, I was drinking beverages created on-the-spot. Everyone was sampling mine, and a few were even envious— a first.

As usual, I blogged the meal in real time on Facebook, and all of the dishes can be seen there. The live blogging was a first for The French Laundry, and I’m not sure they knew what to expect. The restaurant’s New York publicist was nervous and sent several emails asking about the process. In the end, the entire staff went way beyond the call of duty to make this one of my top three meals of all time (the entire menu can be viewed on the newspaper’s website).

When it comes to a last meal, I’m heading to California. Maybe with a little pleading, I can add a 17^th course and have Chef Keller prepare my grandmother’s leg of lamb.

The French Laundry

Chef’s Tasting Menu

July 15^th 2009

compressed fennel bulb

Royal Blenheim Apricots, Arugula and Niçoise Olives

Pommery, “Royal Brut,” Reims MV

Sonoma Sparkler, “Pear,” Sonoma County, MV

salad of Island creek scallop

English Cucumber, Red Radish,
Perilla and Bonito

Lemongrass Infused Sweet Soda with Gin Extract

“OYSTERS AND PEARLS”

“Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters

and White Sturgeon Caviar

abalone “grenobloise”

Hobbs’ Bacon, Yukon Gold Potato Purée, and Celery Branch

López de Heredia, “Viña Tondonia,” Reserva, Rioja 1989

“GUS,” Valencia Orange Soda with Medjool Date Essence

jidori hen egg custard

with a Ragoût of Périgord Truffles

D’Oliveira, Verdelho, Madeira 1973

Vanilla “Italian Soda” with Marcona Almond Syrup

marinated toybox tomatoes

with Cilantro and Raspberry Gelée

F. E. Trimbach, Riesling, “Cuvée Frédéric Émile,” Alsace 1988

Cranberry and Key-Lime “Pop” with Eucalyptus “Aigre-Doux”

hand-rolled russet potato “gnocchi”

with Black Truffles from Provence

Rhubarb “Cremosa” with Sweet Rice Milk

 “beets and leeks”

Maine Lobster Tail “Pochée au Beurre Doux”
with King Richard Leeks, Crispy Potatoes and Red Beet Essence

François Jobard, Merseult, “Genevrières,” 1^er Cru, Burgundy 2005

Kumquat Sparkler with Ginger-Meyer Lemon Infusion

MOULARD DUCK “FOIE GRAS Au torchon”

Port Wine Glaze, Cipollini Onions, Belgian Endive,
Cutting Celery and Toasted Oats

Château Raymond-Lafon, Sauternes 1986

Santa Rosa Plum Juice with Kaffir Lime Simple Syrup

wolfe ranch white quail

Sunchokes, Pine Nuts, Cilantro and Cherry Sauce

Giovanni Corino, “Vigna Giachini,” Barolo 1998

Black Cherry-Infused Mint Tea with Cardamom-Anise Gastrique

“chateaubriand” of marcho farms Nature-fed veal

Hobbs’ Applewood-Smoked Bacon, Garlic “Pain Perdu,” Globe Artichokes,
Nantes Carrots, Parsley Shoots and “Sauce Barigoule”

Dominus, “Estate,” Meritage, Napa 1996

“hoch ybrig” croquette

Joselito Ham, Arugula and Romesco

La Bastide Saint Dominique, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône Valley 2006

Sparkling Peach Cider with Blenheim Apricot Purée

nectarine sorbet

Ginger “Gelée,” Puffed Quinoa and Boysenberry Purée

“ballon DE chocolat fumé”

Smoked Black Tea, “Glace à la Vanille”
and Tonka Bean Caramel

Cossart Gordon, Bual, 10-Year

Boylan’s Rootbeer Float

“coffee and doughnuts”

Cinnamon-Sugared Doughnuts and “Cappuccino Semifreddo”

Dow’s Tawny, Port, 10-year

MIGNARDISES